Bodegeschmack: Which is what the French call goût de terroir, the taste of the land. It is robust, boldly flavored, down-to-earth cooking.
R.W. Apple citing William Woys Weaver from his book Pennsylvania Dutch Country Cooking (Abbeville Press, 1993) in a piece that Saveur is re-running online regarding the Apple's Pennsylvania Dutch Thanksgiving.
Interestingly, Saveur neglects to mention that the esteemed R.W. Apple passed away last year.
btw: I'm adding a chair to my fantasy dinner table for Apple. Man knows good food and conversation like nobody's business. And did I mention? We'll be waiving the elbows on the table rule.